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| Emma Gorge, El Questro |
There is no doubt about it, The Kimberley is an icon. Its that legendary place that is on everyone's lists - but its hard to define why and what its all about. Probably because it is so huge and varied, it can be so many things, depending on what you are up for.
My experience as a tour operator reminded me that the Kimberley is bigger and badder than the most pessimistic expectations. It has a habit of breaking things, be they vehicles, people or budgets. However it is also very achievable and becoming more so all the time. The last time Lisa and I visited the Kimberley was 15 years ago with our friends Tom and Miki. We were pleased to report that there is still big drives on rough roads, crazy little leeches under the waterfalls and big King Brown Snakes.
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| Hugging Boabs, Moonshine Gorge, El Questro |
The Kimberley is not managed as a single protected area like Kakadu, its much more interesting! Its a giant mosaic of huge Cattle Stations, iconic tourism properties, expansive Aboriginal lands and smaller islands of National Parks. The diversity of tenure ensures great variety in adventure opportunities, attracting a broad cross section of travelling types.
One of the joys we experienced is the travelling community. There a few routes across the Kimberley, even less if you follow the Gibb River Road as spine. The result is that you soon start to recognise the faces and the 4WD touring rigs. Next you see them you acknowledge with a nod, then a chat - before you know it you are dropping in for a drink at the neighbours camp! Extend this over a couple of weeks and it is a very, very social wilderness!
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| Camp Oven Lamb Roast, Drysdale Station |
The Gibb River Road is well travelled and well known. The Kalumburu Road and Mitchell Falls almost equally so. Yet they are more remote than most imagine, and remain a committing undertaking. The tourism industry of which I have spent most of my career has been very effective at making these places just another place to go. But in the rush to provide a seamless travel experience the adventure of just reaching these incredibly remote places has been lost for high end tour groups.
While walking amongst the cliffs and lookouts at Mitchell Falls (at least 3 days travel from Kununurra on 4WD roads and a then a 3 hour trek in 35 degree heat) I heard a couple of guys talking. The had been helicoptered in from a luxury cruise boat offshore and were a bit shocked by the fact that it was both hot and rugged
First cruise passenger: "Its a bit of a disappointment, the falls are nothing like the photos"
Second cruise passenger: "Yeah, I reckon its deceptive. Charging us all this money and then its nothing special!"
Frist Cruise Passenger: "Bugger this, lets not bother with the lookout, lets go back to the helipad"
These guys did not even bother to walk another 150m further along the cliffs to take in one of the Kimberley's most expansive viewpoints.
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At the top of Mitchell Falls.
A great walk in after a long journey to get there |
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Nothing to see here, just a 4 tiered waterfall
surrounded by 100 metre cliffs.
Still flowing strongly 4 months after the last rains! |
The good news is the wildlife is abundant as the cane toads have not yet reached the North, Central or West Kimberley. You can still find Mertens Water Monitors in every pool, something that was lost in the Top End over a decade ago. The Brolgas still dance and even the snakes are large and healthy, like the 2 metre Mulga Snake we spotted at Winjana Gorge
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| Big Freshies at Winjana Gorge |
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| Mulga Snake (King Brown). We have not seen any venomous snakes in 5000km across the Top End, until we found this 2 metre Mulga Snake at Winjana. Must be a good habitat because the last time we were here 15 years ago we also had an encounter with a big Mulga Snake |
One of the joys of the Kimberley is that it is a destination beyond the reach of mobile phones and the internet. For a couple of weeks or so, travellers stop staring at their devices and start noticing their surroundings. People talk to each other! There is much to share and conversation usually begins on with what has broken on the 4WD or trailer today! But the land itself soon takes over and all are soon reflecting on the specialness of the country
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| Wanjinas near the King Edward River, North Kimberley |
The Kimberley is not a pure wilderness, there is a lot of activity - however despite the apparent comfort of the tourist friendly Stations and a couple of roadhouses, you need to be pretty much self sufficient. With only a couple of places to get diesel over our 2000km journey its not like you can drop down the shops to get the paper. Time becomes less structured, the day of the week is largely forgotten, progress is measured in how much food/beer/diesel you have left. Ultimately once supplies get low, travellers regretfully start to make their way back toward Derby and Broome. All are planning their next Kimberley Expedition as they drive in to town
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| Sunset over the Pentecost River and Cockburn Range, Home Valley, East Kimberley |
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| Crossing the river en route to Manning Gorge, Gibb River Road |
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| Camp, King Edward River |
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| Manning Gorge, the most idyllic aquatic playground in the Central Kimberley |
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| Bell Gorge |
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| Mertens Water Monitors abound in the North and West Kimberley as the Cane Toads have not arrived yet |
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| Tunnel Creek |
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| Tunnel Creek |
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| Winjana Gorge |
