Back to Kakadu

Returning to Kakadu for me is like returning to the suburb I grew up in. Loads of great memories, a tinge of embarrassment, and a lot of curiosity about how- or if it has changed.
Kakadu is where I was formed as an expedition guide. For a few years in the late 90's I had to sink or swim as a solo expedition guide running Kakadu and Arnhemland trips. I had a troopie, trailer and a camping kit and 8 punters in the Top End Wilderness for 8 days or more. There was no sat phone, no epirb, no GPS and even if these existed, no real backup either!  I loved every minute - from meeting Traditional Owners for a chat and a rollie beside the track, to guiding groups up the epic scrambles of Freezing Gorge. The remoteness and self-reliance kept me very focussed, while allowing freedom to create some awesome experiences for the clients.

Coming back was always going to be interesting, but with my family in tow it was also go to be a joy to share it with them. We had carefully avoided the school holiday crowds and arrived in Kakadu with perfect conditions and plenty of room to move. A couple of nights at Gunlom to start things off, with walks, waterfalls and exploring some of the old haunts. A walk to the Yurmikmik lookout was a wake up call. Descending the rocky track, Aurora took a bad fall. We soon had the first aid kit out and trying to cheer her up - but there was no smiles from the little one. Instead she went quiet, her skin cool and clammy - she was shutting down and her system was in shock! Lisa's nursing experience kicked in and we put her in recovery position - just in time for a vomit on my backpack. Thankfully it was a fairly accessible spot and I was able to jog back and get the 4wd and pick them up at a trailhead. A timely reminder that even though our girls are up up for most adventures, little Rory is still  only 6  and big fall with deep cuts is no small matter.

Heading north to Barramundi Falls, we opted to take the 'unmarked route' to the upper falls. It was funny to see some things don't change, as a backpacker group were there when we arrived, and the guide did all the classic show pony stuff for the benefit of a following of young international ladies, and fellas tagging along.  In the plunge pool below the backpacker guides rock jumping bravado was belittled by a girl who seemed very comfortable with deepwater free-soloing and big rock jumps (see photo).










We missed seeing the World Expeditions crew at Djarradjin Billabong and went up to Garnamarr for a couple of nights to check out Jim Jim and Twin Falls. A morning walk to Jim Jim was perfect, no one around and the kids loving the rock-hopping that is part of every Kakadu Gorge walk.

There was no water flowing at Jim Jim at all, after the dry dry wet season this year. This did not diminish the spectacular nature of this place.

After Jim Jim we headed over to Twin Twin. The 4WD track and water crossing were supposed to be a little tougher, but seemed pretty tame to us after what we had already seen in the Gulf Country. Back in the day they used to paddle Lilo's up to Twin Falls - but not anymore as the Crocodile numbers had made this creek a little bit  sketchy. For this reason a commercial boat transfer took us a short distance up river, safely. The falls are awesome but without much activity of getting there, Twin Falls was a little underwhelming.

The Rock Art Nourlangie is always impressive, although most of the interpretive signs are over 20 years old and are getting hard to read. It would be good if Kakadu could invest in some renewal of some tired infrastructure around some of the biggest attractions in the park. 

We headed up to the East Alligator because Ubirr really is the most amazing art site, we also chose the Gulyambi Cruise as it offset the best cultural experience combined with great cruise and always heaps of crocs.

Our guide Robbie was a natural and confident presenter. He really painted a vivid picture of Arnhem Land culture, our girls have been lucky to enjoy some amazing Aboriginal cultural experiences already - and they really started to get in to it. The presence of many large crocodiles always helps add and edge to a tour. Big kudos to Gulyambi Cruise for making short tour always fresh and engaging - highly recommended.

After almost two decades of involvement with Kakadu I have probably too many opinions on what is and what could be. However after this visit I can still confidently say its one of the greatest destinations on earth. There is so much you can do, culture, wildlife, active adventures. Its a safari destination that defies the usual pigeonholes. Having spent years of my life in Kakadu, I feel very privileged to have explored most of the well known sites and they are very worthy. Having been a guide back in the 90's and been lucky to enjoy a time of exploration, I will keep close my memories of places that very few have seen, places that hidden, extremely rugged and more than a little spooky. There is much in Kakadu that is officially now out of bounds and forgotten by the rangers and tour guides - but the Traditional Owners know, Kakadu is special country!

Yes that stripy creature is a Tassie Tiger - that means this painting is at least 20,000 years old

This art is a bit more recent. Contact era, with double barrelled shotgun. Not sure if this contact experience was a good one!