Litchfield - without the crowds.

Mid July has always been peak season in the Top End, the dry coincides with school holidays and everybody heads out to make the most of it. While the Territory is a huge place, for most visitors its all about those oasis among the savannah. Whether is is the hordes of grey nomads with their giant Jayco's or the backpackers in their Wicked Campers - they are all heading for those stunning crystal clear waterfalls and plunge pools. When it comes to waterfalls, Litchfield is king, the higher rainfall and the sandstone sponge of the Tabletop Range ensure that there is an amazing waterfall, plunge pool or waterhole at every creek, ripple or river as it falls of the edge of the Tableland.



Our challenge was to get the best possible experience, without having to be squeezed in with the aforementioned Jayco and Wicked Camper crowds. Thankfully a dry, wet season meant river levels were down and I expected the Reynolds River Track might be open for an approach from the less visited South West side.



Check out the video edit here





After our Arnhem Land Expedition we needed needed a night in Katherine to restock and get sorted, however it was the car wash that took the time and dollars from us. The rain in East Arnhem had caused an inch thick coating of dark red bauxite mud on every surface, both mechanical and personal. Leaving Katherine and driving to Edith Falls was different, very different - the vehicle was...... shiny! We felt clean, there was no grit or grottyness - it was...nice! The key to success at Edith Falls was to arrive at midday to ensure we scored a much sought after campsite. A long afternoon paddling and swimming in the sun was the perfect follow up to the big drive from Gove.

Driving North from Edith Falls on the Stuart Highway, we soon diverted west to the Douglas Daly region, and southern entrance to Litchfield - The Reynolds River Track. The sign said open to 4WD only - and so we we went. The good thing about NT Parks is that when they say 4WD track they mean it, its not just a gravel road, but the sort of track where you need a proper 4WD and know how to drive it. The South West of Litchfield is really distinctive and varied, open plains, magnetic termite mounds, pandanus and sand palms. We pulled up at the small Surprise Creek campground and decided to set up on on of the few available sites. A short walk to the falls revealed a nice surprise, a smooth rock slab with a couple of deep potholes carved in it. We were so relaxed at this stage we forgot any sort of camera and so Surprise Creek Falls only is recorded in our memories.

The 4wd track from Surprise Creek offered a few more challenges, with some major creek crossings The Mistake Creek crossing has steep rutted approaches and some deep holes in the creek bed. I think at this point the extra clearance and articulation of the Old Man Emu suspension paid for itself. Next was the Reynolds River itself, a crossing that was long and deep - and a chance of crocs - so no walking it first to check it out. Just put it in low range and trust the snorkel and hope we dont get stuck in a hole!

We arrived at my favourite, Sandy Creek around the middle of the day so we scored a good campsite (there are only 6 spots - very exclusive!) A walk up the gorge revealed the falls in good flow and crystal clear water - and all to ourselves - perfect!

We are getting used to Litchfield being a remote wilderness with few others around - and then we went for a drive to the main attractions. As we drove out from the 4WD track on to the black top and we saw the sign - Reynolds River Track - 4wd Only, no trailers campers or caravans. No signs like that at the other end - so we happily took it on and our trusty AllTerrain Camper was up for it.

At Tolmer Falls we struggled to find a park amongst the buses and hundreds of cars, vans etc. But it is a spectacular waterfall and worthy of all the visitation. At Buley Rockhole we lucked in to a car park, next to a sign that said "If car park is full the Buley Rockhole is very busy, try coming back later!" Its the only time i have seen a sign like this in a National Park.

After a glorious night camped at Sandy Creek, we headed a short distance up the track to the Blyth Homestead, a historic settlers hut still wonderfully preserved in original condition. Parks had put in a journal with many of the stories from the family who settled there, the girls ignored the tales of hard frontier life and loved the story of the kid who had a pet crocodile (probably because he had nothing else to play with!) 

No visit to Litchfield is complete without seeing Wangi Falls. Its just stunning and no surprise that it is the most popular National park Attraction in the NT. It even has a free wi-fi hotspot so visitors can upload their selfies in real time and keep marketing the Territory via social media.